Cretan Diary - Chapter 47

Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! Friday 19th - Car Service February 19th, 2010 We arose early because the car was booked for a service at 9am. We arrived at the garage in Vrises at 8:50am, just as the doors were being opened. I explained (with sketches) what we wanted the mechanic to do. From a phrasebook I had scanned and printed a picture of a car, whose parts were labelled in Greek and English. He was amazed by this print and I told him to keep it. We walked up the road into the small town and Jenny looked around the book shop. Then we crossed the road to the ATM and Jenny inserted her card, but there was no option for English. Normally this isn't a problem but Jenny simply couldn't work out the meaning of a question that appeared on the screen. A man was standing in a nearby doorway so I asked him if he could help. He did so, graciously, and we were able to get 300 Euros. We thanked him and headed away. Jenny's 'phone rang. It was Pete, who wanted to know if we'd like to go to a C.I.C. talk about "Mayan Culture". Dimitris had promised the car would be ready by 11am but it wasn't, so, having had a toasted sandwich for breakfast, we went with our friends, to the talk in Aptera. This turned out to be a religious type fantasy and we eventually got away with the excuse: "we have to collect our car before the garage closes". When we reached the garage, the car still wasn't ready and would be another hour. So the four of us went for lunch, at the taverna overlooking the river, then returned to the garage and collected the car. It cost 130 Euros, which I reckon was very fair. The car has now travelled 80,300 km (50,000 miles). Dimitris told me to return for the next service after 10,000 km. Our friends left us and we drove home. I caught up with my work on the computer while Jenny did some work then had a brief siesta. At 5:30pm we drove to the home of Eleni and Christos. I helped Eleni with her web site then we had a meal, chatted and came home. It is very warm outside (21'C) and windy. Rain is forecast for tomorrow evening and Sunday. Saturday 20th - Dust and Heat February 20th, 2010 Jenny has tummy trouble so I walked around the village by myself.
Work on the new house continues with hollow bricks being set between the concrete pillars.
When I returned, Eleni "Skyped" me and asked if I could go to her house to help with her new web site. I did so and returned after a couple of hours.
The sun is obscured by a cloud, which is heading slowly towards Rethymnon. The sun remains obscured because moist air rising from the island is forming cloud which attaches itself to the tail end.

On the way up "seven bends road" I parked our dusty little Peugeot to take a photograph of bee hives.
Bee hives. The sky is hazy and full of dust. The temperature is very high and it feels quite hot. I couldn't park in the shade so the car was very hot inside. I had to drive with all windows open.
On the way back, I saw the odd-looking sheep farmer in Selia. He had a table by the roadside and he was plucking what looked like a very large goose. Nearer home, there's a dead cat on the road. I made myself a sandwich for lunch then caught up on yesterday's UK news recordings. I had a siesta at 3:30pm. Jenny cooked evening dinner for me but didn't eat. 8pm. The outside temperature is 17'C. It's extremely windy. Rain is forecast. 9pm. It has started to rain - only an hour later than forecast. I'm impressed. No sign of it coming into the house. 1am. I've finished watching recorded TV and I'm going to bed. Sunday 21st - Sunny but cooler February 21st, 2010 It's extremely windy and there are a few puddles on the ground but it's mostly dry. The outside temperature is 13.5'C and it's 20'C indoors. The central heating hasn't lit for three days. Jenny is feeling better so we drove to Georgioupolis to have breakfast at the "Naos" with our friends. I took a fly-spray aerosol downstairs to the basement toilet and killed at least thirty mosquitoes. I handed the empty can to Georgia on the way back to our table. I think she got the message. After breakfast, we discovered other English friends were sitting in the taverna next door. They said they weren't hungry but promised to visit the "Naos" for breakfast one day soon.
We walked down to the sea front and along the promenade then turned right to go uphill. It's hot in the sun, but with a cool breeze.
In "The Oasis Bar" we had a quick look around the table-top sale and bought a jar of peanut butter. We chatted to Eleni then left.
A few drops of rain hit us as we returned to the car. The wind had increased again. We drove straight home. On "Seven bends road" the beekeeper was driving away with a load of hives on the back of his pickup truck. Evening It has been very windy. I did some work at the computer. I had a siesta. Later, Jenny cooked paella for me but only ate a sandwich herself. She went upstairs then came down to ask me to fix the satellite TV receiver. It hasn't worked for two days. It announces "No satellite signal is being received". I checked the settings and everything seemed fine but it wasn't working. In the end, I did the obvious and "rebooted" it, by pulling the plug for a few seconds. It is, after all, basically a computer. That did the trick. An email has arrived from Geoff, inviting us to go on his next walk on Wednesday. Eleni just "Skyped" me to say that Google has finally approved her new web site and could I insert the advert code. She applied for approval on Friday but has had an email battle with Google because they wouldn't accept her "street" address. As you know, most houses on Crete are fairly well spread out, outside of towns, and very few have numbers or even names (ours hasn't). Eleni and Christos live effectively in the middle of a field and their house is accessed via a gravel track from a road with no name. However, put their name on an envelope, add the nearest town, and the postman knows where to go. That's how it works here. Anyway, Eleni had to invent a house number and street to keep Google happy. So her web site is now "live". If you want to find out what happened to Brian and Andrew from the CH4 programme "A Place in Greece", here you are: http://www.PlaceOnCrete.com Monday 22nd - Sunny but cooler February 22nd, 2010 The outside temperature was 13'C when we awoke and, indoors, the central heating had fired up. I had a nice warm shower. Jenny made me porridge for breakfast, after hanging out the washing. Rain is forecast for 2pm. Eleni "Skyped" me to thank me for putting the advert code on her web site. Jenny and I walked to the supermarket. I think the gravitational constant must be very high today since I was completley whacked by the hill climb. Jenny is still feeling a little weak after her illness so we didn't do the usual circular walk.
The dogs greeted us on the way to the supermarket, and on the way back, and the turkey scuttled out of the way and fluttered onto its favourite perch. It leads a charmed life.
11am. It's now 14'C outside and 20'C indoors. The sky is overcast. Jenny, despite her weakened state, spent a lot of time cleaning. She also - single-handedly and without my knowledge - managed to turn our bed through ninety degrees and move all the furniture, too. I don't know if the feng shui has improved, but the bedroom seems more spacious now. 7pm. Jenny cooked lamb chops for dinner, with potato, cabbage and real gravy. 8:30pm. I've been at the computer all day. Jenny did some gardening and it hasn't rained, yet. It's 12'C outside but the central heating is keeping it just above 20'C indoors. I have a headache - usually a sign that I've got a bug. I hope not! Tuesday 23rd - Warm February 23rd, 2010 I took an aspirin before going to bed and my headache disappeared. We awoke early and Jenny made breakfast. I helped Jenny to pack a present for Tim's girlfriend. Eleni contacted me to say she had some web pages ready for upload so I drove down to the valley and spent an hour working at Eleni's computer. Meanwhile, Jenny walked to a friend's house and got a lift to a talk about gardening.
Some of Eleni's cats and the oldest dog (13). Very few Cretan dogs reach this age!
I drove to Vamos, parked in the car park, and walked to the Post Office. It cost 4.20 Euros to post Jenny's package to England. The roadworks have reached the crossroads just outside Vamos and it's a crazy melee of excavators, lorries, heaps of soil and men shouting and gesticulating. I forgot to take a photo as I sat, waiting for a gap. On arriving at our village, I stopped at Aspaseea's supermarket and checked for mail. There was a parcel for me and one for Jenny, plus a note to say that a parcel was waiting at Vamos Post Office. Doh! Jenny thought the parcel in the post office might be her long awaited order from Lakeland, which was despatched on the 2nd of February. She has just had an email from Lakeland, where they are trying to trace her parcel, saying they can't find a record of the order and asking for the order number. This was on the first email she sent. Jenny isn't going to reply to the email until she has been to the post office tomorrow. I drove home then realised I'd forgotten to buy bread and bananas. I defied gravity, on foot, and returned to Aspaseea's supermarket, noting the doggy greetings on the way. On the way back, the dogs couldn't be bothered. It feels warm but with a cool breeze in places. My outside thermometer reads 20'C but we're at 300 metres. In the valley it felt hot. According to the weather forecast, it should be clear and sunny. Actually, it's somewhat hazy and I can't see the sea at all. 2:20pm. Jenny has just arrived home with some bananas. Jenny has just had a phone call from Lakeland telling her that her parcel has once again found its way back to Windermere. This happened with her last order. They are going to re send it and this time will track it! This opens up the question of who sent the parcel awaiting us in Vamos post office - a mystery! 3pm. Just received a message from a customer: "Where's the rest of my order?" On checking, I see that he placed the order four and a half months ago! I can find no trace of any other correspondence from him. Here's a question for you; If you placed an order on "2 working day delivery", would you wait eighteen weeks before asking where it was? How am I supposed to trace it now?
We took a walk up the hill and out of the village towards Palailoni. There's a building that appears to hold "factory units". Spot the mistake.
The entrance to our village. Notice the welcoming trash bins at the signpost.
The cute dog, which belongs to our Cretan neighbour, who speaks German (the neighbour, not the dog). The nice man gave us fruit, last time we saw him.
Work continues on the building, opposite. Going upstairs when it's raining will require the use of an umbrella. (Actually, there are indoor stairs. This is for the balcony.)
Wednesday 24th - Walk February 24th, 2010 I didn't awake until after 8am so I had to work quickly to answer all the email enquiries before leaving for Vamos.
The roadworks at Vamos crossroads are still causing chaos. Nobody's heard of "temporary traffic lights" here. It's a free-for-all.
We wanted to drop off the "recycling" at the car park then pick up the mysterious parcel that awaits Jenny at the Post Office. We arrived there in good time and walked to the Post Office. On the door was a sign, proudly announcing: STRIKE TODAY So we went to the nearest caffeinio and ordered drinks. They came with two biscuits and glasses of raki so I was pretty relaxed by the time I had staggered back to the car park.
We made it to the rendezvous with a few minutes to spare and chatted to our friends while waiting for the others to arrive.
The locals were obviously wondering what was going on. We all set off and soon arrived at the first interesting viewpoint...
...an olive factory slurry pit. This stuff is too acidic to be used as fertiliser, so it is dumped in the hope that divine intervention will make it disappear.
The second point of interest was an ancient church, which is simply a cave with a veranda.
Inside, the artifacts are spread around, making use of every available crevice. Lighting is provided by candles.
We passed another cave in the hill side.
No summer visitor to Crete would believe that it is as green as this for part of the year!
Having a rest while Geoff checks his route map.
Apparently, avocado pears DO grow on trees!
A bee orchid next to the path should interest any botonists.
Eventually, we reached the beach at Kera, and sat down to eat our picnics.
Some local women were collecting pebbles which, I think, they said were for their garden.
"It's not cold. Just like summer on an English beach!" Yeah, right.
We walked back uphill for miles, until we reached the village of Tsivaras.
A cat eyed us suspiciously. It's an unusual colour. Most cats here are "Heinz 57" varieties.
I needed a rest, but there was no shade so I used my fleece to protect my neck from the sun. It's hot! (And the forecast was for rain.)
We continued for another mile uphill to our cars, got the air-conditioning running, then drove a short distance to the nearest caffeinio, which is in Doulania. We sat outside but, when the waitress failed to appear, I took the orders and went inside. The waitress was about ninety five and clearly had trouble standing, never mind walking. I gave her the order in Greek and she repeated it slowly (in Greek). "Seven Mythos, one lemonade and one Coca-Cola?" I agreed and she handed me a tray, which I put on the table. Slowly, she counted out nine bottles. "You want glasses?" she asked, in Greek. I thought that might be a good idea, and replied in the affirmative. She rooted about in various cupboards and eventually collected an array of seven assorted glasses. I used the tray to carry everything outside in two journeys, while the locals (sitting inside because it was only 25 degrees outside) applauded. I forgot to take photos there. It's funny how forgetful I become after a single bottle of "Mythos". I managed to find the toilet but almost peed in the bidet! Well, you don't expect to find one in a Cretan "rest room". You expect to find a toilet pan with no seat. The fact that there was a toilet (with a seat), a bath and a bidet, momentarily confused me. I almost tripped over the chair on my way out. The entire toilet suite was coloured avocado, by the way. I think that indicates its age. Almost as old as the waitress.
We finished our drinks, paid sixteen Euros plus tips, and walked to the end of the old village. There we found a new paved road leading into a village of modern houses. Only one of these was occupied - apparently by a caretaker.
We drove back home via the roadworks at Vamos. It's like driving across a ploughed field while tractors have a go at you. Jenny cooked a pizza for dinner - just for a change. Haven't had one for ages. Very windy during the evening and rain forecast for tomorrow! Jenny's neck is very sunburnt. Thursday 25th - Work February 25th, 2010 Jenny made breakfast - cooked for me and cereal for her - then we drove to Vamos. Weather fine and sunny but relatively chilly; only 14'C. Roadworks still horrendous. Jenny said she was glad that I was driving! We parked in the (almost full) car park and walked to the Post Office, where Jenny handed in her collection slip. The clerk made a quick search in a filing cabinet and pulled out a padded envelope addressed to Jenny. I asked (in Greek) if they had anything else for us. A shouted conversation ensued between the clerk and the postman, at opposite ends of the room, and they decided there was nothing. The parcel was a Christmas present from Tim's girlfriend. She had been too busy with college work over Christmas to send anything. It was a lovely gesture and we are very grateful. We drove to the petrol station and greeted old "Harees". I told him I had only twenty Euros and he said in English "twentee yooros plees". I feigned surprise and said (in Greek) "but now you speak English!" "Not much," he grinned (in Greek). "You speak English like a baby and my Greek is the same," I said to him (in Greek). "When I grow up, then, I shall speak English very well!" (in Greek). He is at least 60 years old - maybe 70. We both laughed as he filled the tank, then Jenny got out of the car and paid him. We drove to Kaleeves and went on a hunt for a plastic washing basket, to replace the one that has split. We found one but it was too small, so we left, empty-handed. We bought English sausages from the freezer shop, and a few other items. We drove to Almereetha and Jenny activated her new "chip and pin" card in the ATM. She withdrew some money for the mattress and we returned home on the Drapanos road. We stopped at Plaka to look in the Electrical shop for a plug adapter, but they didn't have the one we need. Honestly, it's so frustrating! We need a real "B&Q" here. Near Palailoni we espied a familiar figure and stopped. It was our neighbour. We offered her a lift but she told us she was taking exercise. Her dog wasn't with her because she (the dog) doesn't like to walk far! We stopped at Aspaseea's supermarket to check for mail (you never know) and to buy eggs. We reached home around 10:45am (8:45am UK time) and I worked at the computer for a while. Jenny went outside in the wind to trim the bougainvillea. At 1pm I made sandwiches then watched a TV programme that I recorded previously. I was falling asleep so I took myself upstairs and had a siesta, not waking till 5pm! That walk, yesterday, must have exhausted me more than I thought. Jenny noticed that our eldest son, Laurence, was on-line and contacted him via "Facebook". He just happened to mention that he's leaving the country, tomorrow, having been posted to the Middle East for a few weeks. Jenny mentioned that our middle son, Tim, has been posted to the Falklands for a few months but hasn't been issued with "cold weather gear". Laurence said he could lend Tim his equipment, since his own posting there had been delayed until August. Apparently, there's a dispute about oil rights on the Falklands, which is a bit worrying. Our friend in Mathess "Skyped" us to say that it was his birthday and would we like to join him and his wife for lunch on Sunday. I replied "yes, straight after breakfast at the Naos!" Jenny suggested that I have an early porridge, instead, so that I'll be hungry by lunchtime. Darn. Then Carl "Skyped" us for a chat and I asked him to sort out the new router that I'd bought, because my connection to my computer in the UK is becoming more intermittent. He tried to program the settings but couldn't get it to work. In fact I can't connect at all now. Ho hum. Jenny cooked dinner at 7:30pm. Temperature outside is 12.5'C and it's still very windy. Midnight. Jenny went to bed ages ago. It's still windy outside but the forecast rain never arrived. Maybe "avrio", although the forecast predicts 20 degrees and "partly cloudy" - which usually means "quite sunny".