Cretan Diary - Chapter xx

Friday 23rd - St George's Day

April 23rd, 2010

Jenny's Morning:-

Our friend Eleni asked me if I would like to go with her to the local church for the George's name day celebrations. Last year this service included a blessing of a flock of sheep so I was keen to go and experience a 'Vicar of Dibley' moment.

Mike dropped me off at Eleni's and we drove the 2 kilometres to St George's church. There weren't many people there and we parked easily. The service had been going on since about 7 am and we arrived at 9 am. The church is small and only holds about twenty people. Unlike in an English service, people can come and go as they please. Many stay for a while and either go outside to talk to their friends or move on to the next St George church to continue their worship. The chapel door was open so we could hear the cantor quite clearly from the church courtyard; surprisingly it was a woman. Eleni's husband, Christos, joined us and commented that she was doing a good job. You need some stamina for that job with a service hours long. Eleni went inside to light a candle to uncle George, who passed away last year. I admired the view from our hilltop position.

Outside the church grounds two big cauldrons had been set up to cook vast amounts of lamb. In front of the church doorway a trestle table was supporting round loaves of bread with candles stuck in the middle. Under the table were boxes and flagons of wine.

Table of offerings.

As the morning wore on more people arrived with more offerings and the bounty grew to include covered baking trays, huge plastic buckets, more wine and more bread. People also brought flowers and added them to the decorations round the church door.

One little girl arrived in her beautiful pink frilly dress from her baptism last weekend. Her mother carried a huge decorated candle, her baptismal candle, also pink and frilly with lucky charms decorating it. Screen printed onto the pink fabric was a photo of the little girl herself. After a while her mother took it into the church along with the other candles to be lit.

A couple of young men arrived on horseback, but there was no sign of a flock of sheep. I did buy a raffle ticket to win a sheep, though. I was quite relieved when I didn't win.

We stood outside, in the sunshine for an hour or so. Eleni met a lot of people she knew and pointed out some of the notorious local characters to me. At least two of whom have served prison sentences.

The church bells were rung. The ringer went to tie up the rope and the elderly woman in charge of the candles said something to him and he gave a few more pulls until she was satisfied. Eleni explained that the two men who used to organise ceremonies at this church both passed away last year, and this woman seems to have taken on the role of organiser.

Shortly afterwards the priest came outside. He blessed the table of food, which was then swiftly cleared to be set up on trestles by the cauldrons for the meal.

The icons were lifted up and paraded round the church. The priest and his followers stood by the church door while the congregation filed past to kiss the icons they held and shake the priest's hand.

Eleni and I joined the throng, but only pretended to do any kissing. We were handed bread by the formidable candle woman. This bread is sweet and slightly spicy, almost like a tea cake, but without the currants.

Everybody began to make their way out of the courtyard towards the picnic. Eleni noticed the priest blessing one of the horses, so we followed to watch him bless the other one too.

By the courtyard steps a man was serving warm, fresh milk from plastic tubs. I took a glass. Eleni though it would probably be sheep's milk. It was delicious, just like cow's milk. I had expected it to taste sharp, like the cheese.

When the throng had died down a little we joined the 'queue' for food. It was served in a plastic bowl and everyone got what they were given, no choosing. There was rice, huge chunks of lamb, cheese pie, soft cheese and a biscuit.

There was a lot left over to take back for the dogs! We also had a glass of village wine each. After the food the crowds began to disperse, except for the hardy few who would battle on until all the wine was gone. Time for a cup of tea. We left for Eleni's house.

Mike's Morning:-

After I left Jenny with Eleni, I drove towards Vreeses. I could still hear a noise, which sounded like a wheel bearing, but not as loud as previously.

As I rounded a corner I had to brake for a herd of sheep filling the road!

I followed slowly down the twisting road until the men took pity and moved the sheep so that I (and the queue behind) could pass. I thanked them through my open window.

When I reached the garage there was nobody in sight so I waited a few minutes until Dimitri appeared. He had been sitting in the "2 Brothers" caffeineio next door. He explained to me that someone had previously fitted brake pads that were too small. They were overheating and that is why they were making a squealing noise. However, rust had built up on the unused annulus of the disc so, in order to fit the correct pads, he would have to get the discs skimmed.

He took me to a partly-hidden garage on the other side of the caffeineio and introduced me to "George", who spoke English. (This was the garage that I should have gone to originally, weeks ago, but I hadn't seen it and assumed that Dimitri's garage was the correct one!)

George explained that I could choose between having the discs skimmed for the correct pads or simply replacing the existing pads with the same (incorrect) size pads. The first choice would be much more expensive. I told him that I wanted it done correctly, and he translated for Dimitris.

I walked into town to the Post Office to send a DVD to Tim. I asked if the BFPO address was all right but the clerk didn't know. So I wrote "Falkland Isles" on the envelope in Greek, told her that it wasn't anything expensive, and paid two Euros and 50 cents for the stamp.

I headed back down the main street and met the same sheep again!

I walked to the bookshop where the German lady, Maria, had been left in charge. I told her that I'd ordered a book. She looked but it hadn't arrived yet. We chatted in German for a few minutes then I went back to the garage. The car wasn't ready so I went to the caffeineio next door and chatted to the owner while he made me a coffee. I sat outside in the sunshine with my coffee, a glass of water and a packet of tiny "chocolate chip cookies". I tried to send Jenny a text message but it didn't seem to work. My phone rang; it was Jenny. I told her that I expected to wait another hour. She reminded me that it was "George's" Name Day, so I went next door and wished him "Xronia Pollá". He had finished skimming the discs and followed me back to Dimitris' garage with them. I took another walk. When I returned, the car was ready.

Dimitris made out the bill, which came to 195 Euros. I gave him all I had - 150 Euros - and he told me, in typical Greek fashion, that I could bring the rest of the money "avrio".

I drove the car away, took a wrong turn, and ended up heading for Vamos. Never mind, it wasn't much further and Jenny probably hadn't returned to Eleni's house yet, so I continued. On the way up the hill, a lot of people were milling around parked cars next to a church. Another George's Day gathering, I guessed.

As I turned the car downhill and braked for the first time, I heard a "tack tack tack" sound from the front offside wheel. Darn! Something wasn't right. I drove carefully to Eleni's house but nobody was there. I decided to return to the garage and headed back down the hill, braking with the gears.

When I reached the garage I explained the problem to Dimitris, who looked thoroughly annoyed. He and his Russian assistant jacked up the wheels while a third mechanic operated the accelerator and brakes. They shook their heads undecidedly and went to fetch "George".

A text message arrived from Jenny to say that they were back at Eleni's house. I tried to 'phone her but heard a message telling me that I had insufficient credit. Darn!

He returned, checked a few things and then spoke to them in rapid Greek. He then explained to me in English that the discs were fine and so were the pads. The problem was caused by a small amount of wear in the slide-bolts, which was allowing the pads to move a little. He had seen this problem previously and the noise usually stopped after a few days when the pads had "bedded in". He suggested that I drive carefully for a few days to see if that cured it.

After he had gone, Dimitris emphasised to me (in Greek) that I should brake gently and avoid overheating the brake pads. I have a good deal of knowledge about cars so I understood this. I thanked him and drove back to Eleni's house.

After a short chat with Eleni, Jenny and I drove to Georgioupolis. Jenny had eaten already but I was hungry. We parked and walked to the "Naos" cafeteria, greeting Georgia with "Xronia pollá", since it's her "Name Day". We ordered drinks and a toasted sandwich, which I ate quickly. Georgia wouldn't accept payment, saying that it was her present to us.

Sad Manolis trudged in and greeted us. I explained that I was out of money because of my car problems and handed him my bottle of water that was three quarters full. He expressed his gratitude sincerely and heartily. We chatted with Georgia's husband, who complained that he was tired and his back hurt. He had awoken early to feed his farm animals, then he'd gone to work at the nearby electricity station, and now he needed a siesta. He went across the street to his house. We left and headed for the cash machine. Unfortunately, the first one we chose had no English "menu" screen and I couldn't figure out which button to press.

As we headed for the next ATM, we were greeted by Georgios, our estate agent, whom we haven't seen for many weeks. He explained that the system of government on the island is changing. The various town councils were being merged so that one "Dimos" would govern a larger area instead of merely a town. This would reduce bureaucracy and costs. He has some involvement in this and told us that he would contact us later with more information so that we could be included on the electoral register.

I know that he's also involved in charity work so I told him that we would probably have a spare bed soon. He told me that there's a poor family just round the corner who could use a bed so I told him I would let him know if and when ours became available.

I asked him to help me to use the ATM and he pointed to one just five metres away. It had an English menu so, with Jenny's help, I was able to get some money.

We said goodbye to Georgios and walked to the new supermarket. From there we walked out of town towards the garage and bought an ice cream cornet from the caffeinio for 1 Euro. Then we returned and took a walk along the sea front.

Workers have cleared the storm debris from the beach and one man was clearing the final section.

Jenny had the mandatory paddle and said that the sea wasn't cold.

We returned home, using the brakes gently and as little as possible.

Later that afternoon, Jenny sent our friend, Georgina, in Athens a "Xronia pollá" text message. Georgina phoned back shortly afterwards to thank her. When Jenny had finished, I spoke a few words to Georgina in Greek. She suggested that we should chat some time using "Skype". She said she didn't have a camera. (Georgina, you don't need a camera for "Skype", although it's nicer if you have one.) Actually, my Skype camera has stopped working. I'll have to investigate that.

At 6:40pm we drove to our quiz night at the "Apopsi" taverna at Neo Chorio, had a nice meal with our friends, and didn't win. We arrived back home at 11:30pm.

Saturday 24th - Lazy Day

April 24th, 2010

We arose after 9am. The sky is cloudy but it's quite warm outside. We walked to the shops to buy provisions. Not long after we returned, it rained a little and we ran out to bring in the (dry) washing.

See Crete from the air.

Jenny cooked stew for evening dinner, with local sausages, potato, peppers, beans, tomato and red wine.

Sunday 25th - Breakfast at Georgioupolis

April 25th, 2010

We collected our friends at 9:50am and drove to Georgioupolis for breakfast at the "Naos" (rhymes with "mouse"). We greeted "Sad Manolis" but didn't buy him a drink.

After breakfast we took a walk and discovered one of the trains has returned.

The beach is now clean and ready - just waiting for the tourists.

Last-minute painting.

Somebody thinks they'll save energy by leaving these lamps on during the day.

The clothing stall-holders looked bored. No sign of customers today.

We returned home. I did some work then had a siesta while Jenny had a bath. At 4pm we drove to Eleni's house to see Marella's new-born puppies. Say "aaah!"

We returned home for dinner. Jenny served up the remainder of yesterday's meal with rice. It was very filling, so we had no room for pudding!

Monday 26th - Vrises

April 26th, 2010

I drove to Vreeses to pay the balance of my garage bill. I called at the bookshop but our books haven't arrived. I bought a loaf of bread from the bakery and returned home. The brakes still make a noise.

Jenny tells me that she had a 'phone call from the furniture shop to say that the beds will be delivered on Wednesday.

A little rain is forecast for the afternoon so I'll probably work at the computer. Some time soon I must assemble my new TV aerial and fit another LNB to the satellite dish.

This is one of the poorest (watchable) channels. There are some totally unwatchable ones, too!

The new aerial array. Yes, I got a round tuit this afternoon!

Unfortunately, there is no discernible difference in the TV pictures. As bad as ever!

Tuesday 27th - Grey Day

April 27th, 2010

Today has been like an English summer's day. Grey skies and drizzle. I awoke with a headache caused, I think, by blocked sinuses as a result of hayfever. I took a "non-drowsy" anti-allergy pill.

We left just before eight o' clock and, at the top of our lane, I had to stamp on the brakes as a vehicle sped around the blind corner. Jenny rebuked me for braking hard, since we are supposed to be braking gently while the new pads bed in. Curiously, after that emergency stop, the brakes didn't make the clicking noise any more.

We drove to Georgioupolis and met our friends there for a continental style breakfast at the Corissia Hotel eating rooms. These are about 200 metres from the actual hotel and next to a swimming pool. But nobody was swimming today!

For five Euros each, you can eat as much as you want. It's good value but I wouldn't want it every day and it's rather tempting to eat too much.

After breakfast, Jenny and her friend drove to Vrises to go on a walk to Nippos and back while I drove her husband (with the bad knee) back to Apokoronas and left him at the "Bio-Market" so that he could buy provisions.

I drove home but there was little to do so, when Eleni "skyped" me to ask if I'd go and help set up new email addresses on her computer, I was only to happy to have the excuse. My headache hadn't gone away.

We had tea and, after I'd set up Eleni's computer, Christos took me to see our chickens.

Christos put down a bowl of food and they gathered round it. The brown chicks pecked at any black ones that dared to come near.

Christos insisted that I should stay for lunch so we had a light meal of lentils with sun-dried tomato, and salad. It tasted lovely.

I returned home and settled down to work. However, two hours later I was still doing battle with the scanner - which refused to work - when Jenny arrived home. It took me a further hour to de-install and re-install software and finally I got it to work by disconnecting my Firewire hub.

Wednesday 28th - We have beds!

April 28th, 2010

It was cold overnight and the morning began chilly but sunny.

Matthew in the UK had uploaded all his van journey photos overnight so they were waiting for me in my "DropBox". (Terry and Matthew drove our "stuff" here in September, as you may remember.)

I worked at the computer till around 10am when the phone rang. It was the van driver from the furniture shop "Simple City". He would be in the square in twenty minutes. I walked up there to meet him and sat on a bench, shivering each time a cloud covered the sun.

When he arrived I climbed into his van and directed him to our house. We carried the beds into the house and he left.

Jenny noticed a nut and a washer on the floor. When we checked, several nuts were loose, so I got my tools from the shed and we tightened them all.

We struggled to get one bed upstairs then Jenny checked it for size and tried an old mattress on it. I think we'll have to buy new ones.

I decided that I needed a break so we drove down to Georgioupolis for lunch. We sat in the taverna next to "Tito's" and watched the world go by.

After lunch, we headed for the sea and, as we walked down the road, there was a "honk" behind us. It was our friends from Mathess! They had flown back from England last night. We chatted for a few minutes then continued our walk along the sea front and back to our car.

During the afternoon, I discussed with Eleni, via Skype, the details of the new local government. The whole Apokoronas region will have a single council. This will have some advantages but meetings need to be held so that everyone can be informed. I emailed everyone we know to ask them to contact Eleni about the meetings.

Jenny had bought pies from our village hall so she cooked them and we had them for evening dinner.

Carl and his girlfriend called us via "Skype" later in the evening so we chatted for a while.

Thursday 29th - We order mattresses

April 29th, 2010

When I came downstairs there was a cat sitting on the outside window ledge. I think it's our neighbours' - not a wild one.

After breakfast we drove to "Simple City" to buy foam mattresses but they insisted they couldn't help us. However, they told us they bought them from a shop in Xaniá and gave us the address.

We left our car in the car park and walked to the shop. The owner will ring us when the mattresses are ready to collect. Probably end of next week.

We had a lengthy trudge around the harbour to where Jenny thought the vegetable market might be situated. It wasn't. We trudged back to the cross-shaped indoor market and went in the spice shop where Jenny bought some stuff. Antoinette (the Australian assistant) wasn't there.

We left and went around the corner. As we passed a small caffeneio, I saw Antoinette talking to the owner. We greeted each other and she told us she was off work because she had sciatica. We sat down, ordered drinks and chatted.

On the way back to the car park, Jenny bought tiny onions. From the car park we drove to Lidl and bought provisions and bed linen. We called a Vreeses on the way home and Jenny collected the books that we'd ordered while I went to the garage to report that the brakes are fine.

Back home, I'm working on the computer. I just called our Estate Agent to tell him that he can arrange to collect our old beds for charity. He said that he'll contact the priest in Giorgioupoli and ring me back.

At 7pm we walked around the village then had dinner at the taverna in the square. They serve anything you like as long as it's "gyros". (Meat and chips with yoghurt in a tortilla wrap.) On the way home we called at Aspaseea's shop and gave her the glacé ginger that we'd bought in Xaniá. Her husband chewed a piece and looked disgusted. Aspaseea ate a piece and acted as if she'd eaten a hot coal. Jenny suggested she bake some biscuits with finely chopped ginger. Aspaseea's daughter declined the offer of ginger, saying that she had a badly ulcerated tongue. The Greek word for ginger is "peeperoreeza".